AcademyS Silouhette
AcademyS Permanent Make-Up (PMU) represents a group of techniques in permanent make-up which have been developed by Sviatoslav Otchenash and which are taught worldwide by his AcademyS trained masters. These techniques cover micropigmentation of the eyebrows, lips and eyelids and their aim is to enhance the client’s natural look that could have deteriorated due to age, certain diseases, presence of scars, and similar. I am proud to have trained with the Grand Master himself, Sviatoslav Otchenash, for a week long intensive Master Class in Prague and continued my training and certification within the AcademyS to become one of the first AcademyS Certfied Artists in Ireland.
AcademyS Silouhette Permanent make-up treatment can also be used to emphasize the client’s best features or, simply, to save them time which they spend everyday on the mundane task of applying regular makeup. No matter whether its the eyes, lips, or brows, the goal is to get the best result for the client, not only the client’s wish is important – but the artist’s professional opinion on what will fit them best.
By using sterile and disposable equipment, the best quality pigments are injected under the top layer of the skin. The immediate result of the treatment differs from the healded result as the colour will appear darker at first because the pigment is placed between the epidermal and dermal layer. As the skin regenerates, this upper layer of epidermis will shed and it will be replaced with new cells. As a consequence, the pigmented area will appear brighter than it was straight after the initial treatment.
S Brows
Magic Shading of Semi Permanent brows. (Ombre / Soft shading effect). Brows are defined but natural looking, colour is intense from the base of the brow and softens and lightens as it gets closer to the forehead. It is also softer at the head of the brows to mimic the look of natural brows.
Magic Combined
Hair Strokes and Shading method to get the most natural looking semi-permanent brow. As this treatment uses two different techniques in takes a little longer to do and is a little more expensive than microblading or machineshading alone.
Classic Eyeliner Technique
What is PMU Eyeliner?
Permanent Eyeliner eliminates the need to apply eyeliner with makeup, and can be done on the upper and lower lash line. Permanent Eyeliner can also frame the eyes and can make eyelashes appear thicker, darker and fuller.
All permanent cosmetic procedures require 2 treatments. You are required to come back for at least one touch-up visit before the treatment is complete. Be prepared for the initial colour intensity of your procedure to be significantly sharper, brighter, or darker than what you can expect for the healed results. It will take time for this transition based upon how quickly the outer layer of your skin exfoliates. You should leave between 6-8 weeks between each treatment.
While the initial colour may be the desired tone and intensity, it will not always remain so intense as it heals inside the skin. While the tattoo colours are constant, your skin thickness and colour will vary depending on age, exposure to cold, heat, sun, and circulatory changes.
What are the benefits of permanent eyeliner?
- Define your eyes
- No more smudges, smears, or worn-off eyeliner
- Great for people with allergies to cosmetic products
- Enhances the lash line making lashes look longer
- Saves time and money
- Great for people with unsteady hands or vision problems
- Swim, shower or excessive without the eyeliners running
- Fills in thin or light colored eyelashes
- deal for total eyelash loss due to trichotillomania or Alopecia
What if I’m not sure how much eyeliner I’d like to have applied?
The procedure is done in two appointments. During the first session it is always best to be modest with thickness, line length and colour as we can always add more at the second session. The artist will work with you to determine the perfect shape and placement for your specific features.
How long does the procedure take?
The first procedure takes approximately 2-2.5 hours, the 6 week touch up is about 1.5 hours.
What will I look like immediately after?
There will be swelling typically for the first 24-48 hours. While the swelling starts going down right away and most people are back to normal by the following morning, plan on 48 hours of staying low key to be safe! The colour will appear darker during the first week, but will gradually lighten and may possibly scab
What are the pre-care instructions?
- Please do not wear any eye makeup to your appointment.
- Contacts should be removed prior to procedure and refrain from wearing them for a minimum of 4 hours after the procedure is finished.
- Do not take Aspirin, Niacin, Vitamin E, Vitamin C or Advil/Ibuprofen 48 hours before procedure.
- Avoid sun and tanning one week prior to procedure.
- Do not have eyelash extensions. You must have your eyelash extensions removed one week prior to coming in for your permanent eyeliner appointment.
- Do not use Latisse for a minimum of 3 months prior to the procedure. Other lash serums must be discontinued for a minimum of 1 month prior to the procedure. The reason is that those types of serums are very harsh on the eyelids and make your lids quite fragile for cosmetic tattooing. As a result, your eyelids will bleed and bruise. You may resume using lash serum 2-4 weeks after the touch up appointment.
What are the post-care instructions?
- Please do not wear any eye makeup for 1 week following the procedure.
- Gently wipe your eyelid area every hour for the first 3 hours with damp cotton pads soaked in sterile water
- Apply iced water in a cool compress as often as you’d like to reduce swelling, but make sure it is wrapped in a towel.
- You may apply a thin layer of the given ointment to the lash line if necessary on day 2 and 3.
- If the area starts to flake, leave it. Do not pick or peel off the skin.
- Keep your hands clean and avoid touching the treated areas.
- For at least 1 week, or until healing is complete (whichever is longer) avoid excessive sweating, sun tanning, swimming, steam rooms.
- Keep your eye area as dry as possible for the first week.
- Pigments will slowly fade over time according to one’s metabolism, skin type, sun exposure, medication, and lifestyle. Schedule maintenance visits to keep it looking fresh.
- You must not donate blood for 1 year following your makeup service (per Red Cross.)
Does it hurt?
The eyeliner or lash line procedure is more psychologically scary to most clients than anything else. The discomfort is relative as everyone has a different level of sensitivity. A topical lidocaine is applied to the eyelids for numbing prior, and anaesthetic is applied during the procedure. Every effort is made to ensure you remain comfortable for the duration of the procedure.
Aquarelle Lips (Natural Effect)
Aquarelle lips are a special lip blushing technique which gives a lipgloss effect, rather than a full-on, opaque lipstick look. The most prominent difference between aquarelle lips and the traditional lip blush is the fact that there is no distinctive contouring with aquarelle lips, as the desired result is a soft, blurred effect. Think aquarelle or watercolour paintings, from which the treatment gets its name: subtle transition of shades, luminous, almost transparent colours with no sharp edges.
This effect is created by adding layers of shade in the chosen colour in multiple passes, building the concentration of pigment to a desired saturation by meticulous colour placement. The shape of the lips can only be slightly modified to take care of any possible asymmetry and diminish the look of any scars and discoloration. But remember, the point is for the lips to look natural, so they won’t be erased completely.
How to prepare for the appointment?
In order for the treatment to give neat, natural-looking and even results, your lips shouldn’t be sunburnt, chapped, or overly dry. Exfoliated, moisturized lips absorb and retain pigments better and will make the procedure much shorter. A week before prep your lips by exfoliating them daily, wearing lip balm and keeping hydrated.
On the day of the procedure, avoid caffeine, alcohol, aspirin, ibuprofen, fish oil, niacin, vitamin E, and spicy foods, as they can make your lips sensitive. Avoid applying retinol-based products.
Can I have aquarelle lips if I have lip fillers?
Yes, but at least two weeks have to pass since your last injection.
Does the aquarelle lips treatment hurt?
Topical anaesthetic is applied to ease discomfort. Pain is individual and, it depends on the thickness of the skin and your general sensitivity.
What is the healing period like?
Improper aftercare can greatly affect the pigment retention, so it is extremely important that you follow the aftercare instructions given.
In the first 24 hours after the procedure, you should wipe the lips with a moist cotton pad every half an hour to keep them hydrated, but you shouldn’t put on any cream. The next two days are the so-called dry healing period – you must not get the lips wet or apply any creams, balms, vaseline. Don’t worry about the dryness. From day 4, you can use some vaseline to relieve any dryness and itching.
At no point should you rub, pick or scratch the treated area. The scabbing will go away naturally. You should avoid sun exposure for 3 to 4 weeks following the procedure and always apply sun protection to protect your permanent lip colour Super bright Lips (Lipstick effect)